Leith Guide

Hello friends! It's been on my mind for some time to create a collection of mini Edinburgh neighbourhood guides. One reason I've put this off for so long is that there are already so many wonderful Edinburgh guides! So, I’m treating this series of blogs as if I were replying to a friend who asked for my recommendations in a specific Edinburgh neighbourhood.

A Local's Guide to Leith

For those who enjoy a little background, Leith was an independent burgh until it merged with Edinburgh in 1920 (much to the outrage of Leithers who voted 26,810 to 4,340 against the merger) and, for many centuries, it was Scotland's premier port and home to a wide variety of flourishing industries including shipbuilding, flour milling and biscuit making. 

How to Spend Your Time

The Shore - In my opinion, the Shore is Leith's most scenic area. Its banks are lined with a range of beautiful old buildings and various eateries. In the warmer weather, there’s a wonderful atmosphere as many locals and visitors sit alongside the water or enjoy alfresco dining at the restaurants and pubs.

Leith Walk & Constitution Street - If you decide to walk to Leith, you'll pass through Leith Walk which is home to various small businesses and charity shops. If you find the hustle and bustle of Leith Walk a little too much for you, Constitution Street will provide some welcome respite from the crowds allowing you to admire the mix of historic buildings. The street is also home to a range of places to eat.

Tip: The Leith Walk Police Box (a quirky pop–up space) is always worth a look and the Little Free Library beside it. 

The Royal Yacht Britannia served the Royal Family for 44 years. The impressive ship has travelled more than a million nautical miles and is considered one of the most well-known ships in the world. Today, the Royal Yacht sits beside Ocean Terminal Shopping Centre and welcomes visitors aboard to explore its Admiral’s Quarters, Crew Quarters, State Apartments, and more. 

Tip: Enjoy a cuppa or lunch in the Royal Deck Tea Room.

Trinity House Maritime Museum was once the headquarters of the Incorporation of Mariners and Shipmasters of Leith. Today, it explores Leith’s famous maritime history with maritime memorabilia including narwhal tusks, navigational instruments and a painting of Admiral Duncan by Sir Henry Raeburn. Unfortunately, it has limited opening but it's well worth a visit (coming from someone who knows practically nothing about the subject).  

Tip: Open from 1st April to 30th September (Fridays, by guided tour only at 11am & 1pm.)

Shopping Local  

(Just a couple of my favourites, I’ve really tried to limit myself!)  

Bookshops of Leith  – I struggled to choose just one bookshop so here are a few favourites. First, sitting at the top of Leith Walk, Topping & Company Booksellers (pictured below, 2 Blenheim Place) is spread out over two levels with tables to sit and enjoy a complimentary drink. Typewronger Books (4a Haddington Place) is a cosy nook that stocks a range of books including local authors. Next, Elvis Shakespeare (347 Leith Walk) is a wonderful fusion of rare vinyl and secondhand books. Argonaut Books (15 Leith Walk) sits near the Foot of the Walk and is another fantastic bookshop with a small cafe. Lastly, Edinburgh Community Bookshop (179 Great Junction Street) sells secondhand books to raise funds for various local charities.

Valvona & Crolla (19 Elm Row) - Valvona & Crolla is a charming family-run business and a cornucopia of Italian deli produce, pastries, bread and wines. There’s even a restaurant tucked away in the back. 

Pascal & Co (20 Albert Place) - Named after the owner's beloved pooch, Pascal & Co is a delightful vintage store filled with a lovingly curated selection of vintage clothes and retro home decor sourced from Scotland, France, Italy and beyond.

Handsel (336 Leith Walk) - Handsel is one of my favourites to pop into when looking for a gift. I'm always impressed by their range of home and lifestyle products.

Logan Malloch Ltd (13 Leith Walk) - Logan Malloch is another beautifully curated contemporary gift store with a wonderful bookish nook to the rear of the shop. 

The Leith Collective (Ocean Terminal) - A brilliant store stocking over 300 makers and artists' work. A really interesting space to browse as you never know what you'll come across!

Topping & Company

A Bite to Eat...

 William & Johnson Coffee (Custom Lane) - great coffee & hot choc

Embo (29 Haddington Place) - delicious sandwiches

 Roseleaf Bar Café (23 Sandport Place) - a unique lunch spot

 The Pastry Section (143 Great Junction Street)

La Casa (297 Leith Walk) - a lovely dinner option. 

Valvona & Crolla (19 Elm Row) - delicious homemade pasta

Further Exploring

Leith Murals - As you explore Leith, there's a good chance you'll spot at least one of its murals. A few of the murals date back to the 80s and are complemented by an influx of new murals from 2013 onwards, thanks to LeithLate’s mural project. If you’d like to visit all of Leith's murals, LeithLate has created a mural map, tap here to see it.

Pilrig Park - Pilrig Park is a popular park with locals and it's a great spot to enjoy a picnic or soak up a bit of sun in summer. The large, open space is also home to Pilrig House. The historic house was once the home of Robert Louis Stevenson’s grandfather and uncle. The well-known author spent time there as a child and went on to mention Pilrig House in his novels Kidnapped and Catriona!

Coburg House Art Studios (15 Coburg Street) - I've yet to visit Coburg House but it sounds too good not to include. Once a granary warehouse, Coburg House has been a thriving hub of artists, designers and makers for over 20 years. The shop is open every weekend and it hosts regular exhibitions as well as open studios.

Out of the Blue Drill Hall (36 Dalmeny Street) - Another interesting space is Out of the Blue Drill Hall. It was once an army drill hall but was transformed into a community hub and venue in 2004. Keep an eye out on their website as they host regular events and exhibitions. 

Leith Links - A lovely spot for a wander. The large open space is sectioned up by a network of paths lined with mature elm trees and boasts views of Arthur’s Seat in the distance. Leith Links has served several purposes over the years including a space to graze cattle, exercise horses, dry clothes, host fairs, and was once the prime place to play golf in Edinburgh. 

Pilrig House

See you in the next guide!

Spoiler: It'll be a New Town guide